Soil tests reveal
what nutrients your soil lacks and what soil amendments it needs. If your soil lacks:
- Nitrogen: Add compost.
- Phosphorous: Add aged manure, rock phosphate (mined from clay deposits), or bone meal.
- Potash: Add seaweed, manure, hardwood ashes, or granite dust.
Soil that’s pH-challenged
Flower and vegetable
gardens thrive with soil that’s not too acidic (low pH) nor too alkaline (high
pH). Veer too far from neutral, and gardens will struggle.
- To raise soil pH (make more alkaline): Spread garden lime pellets — ground limestone — evenly, rake into the top 2 inches of soil, then water. Lime will break down during winter and slowly raise the pH by spring.
- To lower soil pH (make more acidic): Add aluminum sulfate (your hydrangeas will bloom bluer) or cottonseed meal.
1 Tbsp alum a.k.a. aluminum sulfate per gallon water To make hydrangeas blue = lower pH = make more acid
1 cup Lime To make hydrangeas pink = increase pH = make more alkaline
Lime may be added to acidic soils
- To raise soil pH: Spread garden lime pellets — ground limestone — evenly, rake into the top 2 inches of soil, then water. Lime will break down during winter and slowly raise the pH by spring.
Texture troubles
Size
matters when it comes to soil particles. If particles are too large (sandy
soil) water moves through too quickly and plants dry out; too small (clay soil)
and water puddles and roots rot.
Both
soil types benefit from generous helpings of organic material — leaf mold, compost,
and straw.
“You
just can’t add too much organic matter,” says George Pisegna of the
Horticultural Society of New York. “It helps retain water and helps aid
drainage.”
Cover
crops, such as winter rye or alfalfa, add organic matter and break up soil to
produce air spaces that roots love. Plant in fall and turn under in spring, 2-3
weeks before planting.
In need of nutrients
Drainage impaired soil
Fall
is a good time to change the lay of the land to solve drainage
problems. Poor drainage causes root rot and turns your yard into breeding
grounds for mosquitoes.
To
lead water away from your garden, change the soil grade by building berms or digging
a French drain. To prevent puddles within your garden, add topsoil to
depressions.
From <http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/gardens/how-to-fix-soil/#.>
Soil tests reveal
what nutrients your soil lacks and what soil amendments it needs. If your soil
lacks:
- Phosphorous: Add aged manure, rock phosphate (mined from clay deposits), or bone meal.
Importance of Phosphorus to Plants
Phosphorus
is a component of the complex nucleic acid
structure of plants, which regulates protein synthesis. Phosphorus is,
therefore, important in cell division and development of new tissue.
Phosphorus
is also associated with complex energy transformations in the plant.
Adding phosphorus to soil low in available phosphorus
promotes root growth and winter hardiness, stimulates tillering, and often
hastens maturity.
Plants deficient in phosphorus are stunted in growth
and often have an abnormal dark-green color.
Sugars
can accumulate and cause anthocyanin pigments to develop, producing a
reddish-purple color. This can sometimes be seen in early spring on low
phosphorus sites. These symptoms usually only persist on extremely low
phosphorus soils. It should be noted that these are severe phosphorus
deficiency symptoms and crops may respond well to phosphorus fertilization
without showing characteristic deficiencies. In addition, the reddish-purple
color does not always indicate phosphorus deficiency but may be a normal plant
characteristic. Red coloring may be induced by other factors such as insect
damage which causes interruption of sugar transport to the grain.
Phosphorus
deficiencies may even look somewhat similar to nitrogen deficiency when plants
are small. Yellow, unthrifty plants may be phosphorus deficient due to cold
temperatures which affect root extension and soil phosphorus uptake. When the
soil warms, deficiencies may disappear. In wheat, a very typical deficiency
symptom is delayed maturity, which is often observed on eroded hillsides where
soil phosphorus is low.
Phosphorus is often recommended as a row-applied
starter fertilizer for increasing early growth. University of Nebraska
starter fertilizer studies conducted in the 1980s showed early growth response
to phosphorus in less than 40 percent of the test fields (Penas, 1989). Starter
applications may increase early growth even if phosphorus does not increase
grain yield. Producers need to carefully evaluate cosmetic effects of
fertilizer application versus increased profits from yield increases.
From <http://passel.unl.edu/pages/informationmodule.php?idinformationmodule=1130447043&topicorder=2&maxto=15>
Soil tests reveal
what nutrients your soil lacks and what soil amendments it needs. If your soil
lacks:
- Potash: Add seaweed, manure, hardwood ashes, or granite dust.
Fertilizer potassium is sometimes called “potash”, a
term that comes from an early production technique where potassium was leached
from wood ashes and concentrated by evaporating the leachate in large iron pots
(“pot-ash”). Clearly, this practice is no longer practical and is not
environmentally sustainable. In food production, potassium is removed from the
soil in harvested crops and must be replaced in order to maintain future crop
growth.
Potassium is essential for plant health and there must
be an adequate supply in the soil to maintain good growth. When the
potassium supply is limited, plants have reduced yields, poor quality, utilize
water less efficiently, and are more susceptible to pest and disease damage.
Potassium fertilizers are safe to use since they pose
no harmful environmental or health effects. However, like any substance,
when used in excess quantities they can have undesirable effects. High-yielding
crops remove large amounts of potassium in the harvested portion…amounts that
eventually must be replaced for the soil to remain productive.
Potassium is an important mineral required for human
health. Since potassium is not stored in the body, it is necessary to
continually replace this nutrient on a regular basis with potassium-rich foods.
Diets high in potassium and low in sodium have been shown to be beneficial for
avoiding high blood pressure.
“Potash” fertilizer comes from many common earth
minerals and provides an important boost for maintaining the health of both
humans and plants. There are many excellent sources of potassium that
can be used to sustain a productive and healthy ecosystem.
What is Vermiculite and how and why is it used in the
garden?
What is Vermiculite?
Vermiculite has been
used in various industries for over 80 years. It is used in the construction,
agricultural, horticultural, and industrial markets.
Vermiculite is the mineralogical name given to hydrated laminar
magnesium-aluminum-iron silicate which resembles mica in appearance.
Vermiculite is found
in various parts of the world. Locations of the predominant commercial mines
are in Australia, Brazil, China, Kenya, South Africa, USA and Zimbabwe.
Vermiculite mines
are surface operations where ore is separated from other minerals, and then
screened or classified into several basic particle sizes.
When subjected to
heat vermiculite has the unusual property of exfoliating or expanding into
worm-like pieces (the name vermiculite is derived from the Latin 'vermiculare'
- to breed worms).
This characteristic
of exfoliation, the basis for commercial use of the mineral, is the result of
the mechanical separation of the layers by the rapid conversion of contained
water to steam.
Uses of Vermiculite
Vermiculite's many
uses and beneficial properties include:
¤ Inorganic, and
sterile.
¤ No known toxicity
or fire hazard.
¤ High water holding
capacity.
¤ Non-abrasive and
non-irritant.
¤ Absorbs excess
nutrients.
¤ Facilitates
re-wetting.
¤ Low alkalinity.
¤ High
cation-exchange capacity.
¤ Does not
deteriorate in storage (if kept dry).
¤ Free from disease,
weeds and insects.
¤ Good air holding
capacity.
¤ Insulates and
minimizes soil temperature fluctuations.
Seed Germination
Vermiculite is ideal
for the germination of seeds, because it's aeration properties combined with it's water holding capacity make it a very
suitable medium for direct contact with the seeds.
When vermiculite is
used alone, without compost, seedlings should be fed with a week fertilizer
solution when the first true seeds appear. Large seeds can be mixed with
Vermiculite in a small polythene bag closed at the neck, and kept in a warm
place until the seeds just start to germinate. Then plant them singly in small
pots or trays of potting compost. Vermiculite can also be applied to the
outdoor seed bed where it will give improved emergence and less risk of
capping.
Rootings and Cuttings
Vermiculite/sphagnum moss peat composts stimulate root
growth, giving quicker anchorage of the plant and uptake of nutrients.
A 50/50 mix is generally suitable for cuttings on the
open bench or under plastic covers, but a maximum of 25% is recommended under
mist irrigation in Summer.
Thoroughly water the
vermiculite before inserting cuttings, and do not compress around the base of
the cutting.
Potting Mixes
Vermiculite in
potting compost gives a very light open compost, holding more water and
facilitating re-wetting, thereby lengthening the time between watering.
Vermiculite also has excellent ion exchange properties which absorb excess
nutrients and release them slowly to the plants via the finest root hairs.
A 50/50 mix of vermiculite and sphagnum moss peat is
widely used for greenhouse pot plants and hanging baskets, while a 25/75 mix is
generally suitable for bedding plants, nursery stock, etc.
To improve an existing compost add 20-25% by volume of
Vermiculite and mix thoroughly.
sphagnum peat moss
is a natural, organic soil conditioner that
regulates moisture and air around plant roots
for ideal growing conditions. It will help to:
Save Water.
• Peat retains up to 20 times its weight in
moisture, and releases water slowly as plants need it.
Aerate Heavy, Clay Soil.
• Peat moss allows for proper root growth by
loosening and aerating soils.
Bind Sandy Soil.
• By adding body to sandy soil, Canadian peat
helps it retain moisture and nutrients.
Reduce Leaching.
• Peat moss reduces leaching of nutrients in or
added to the soil, releasing them over time. This will save on fertilizer.
Protect Soil.
• Peat moss protects soil from hardening and
adds organic material.
Make Better Compost.
• Peat moss speeds the composting process,
reduces odours and controls air and water in the compost pile.
Peat moss decomposes
slowly over several years compared to compost which typically decomposes within
one year. It has a reliable pH (3.4 to 4.8); is environmentally friendly and
free of insects, weeds, seeds, salts and chemicals, and represents good value
(bale compression means you get approximately two bales in one!). It’s the
ideal growing medium for:
Vegetables & Flowers
Every gardener
dreams of a garden bursting with succulent vegetables and glowing with color,
spring through fall. To cut down on the tending, watering and feeding necessary
to make that dream a reality, “garden from the ground up” by properly preparing
the soil.
Healthy soil with
plenty of organic matter promotes healthy plant growth. One of the best sources
of organic matter is Canadian sphagnum peat moss. Canadian sphagnum peat moss
is a natural, organic soil conditioner. Its unique cell structure helps regulate
moisture and air around plant roots, creating ideal growing conditions.
Peat Moss
• Aerates plant roots by loosening heavy clay
soil.
• Adds body to sandy soil.
• Saves water by absorbing and holding
moisture.
• Reduces leaching or runoff of nutrients
present in or added to the soil, releasing them over time.
After outlining the area for the new garden bed with
string or a garden hose. Your checklist for creating new garden beds:
• Cut away the sod, saving it for lawn patches
or the compost bin.
• Dig or rototill two inches of peat moss into
the top six or eight inches of soil.
• Consider adding complementary organic matter,
such as compost, for nutrients.
• Add bedding plants or seeds.
• Water lightly over a one to two week period.
Amending existing beds
• Unless you are planting a large area, hand
dig peat moss into existing flower or vegetable beds. Be careful not to disturb
plant roots. Dig one-inch of peat moss into the top six inches of soil to
condition the area for existing plants or new transplants.
Transplanting Trees & Shrubs
Imagine bluebirds
flitting among the maple leaves, singing to each other. Nearby, a cardinal
stops for a quick snack at the cranberry bushes. Butterflies hover over
fragrant lilacs.
Reality might be
something closer to a yard with a single tree. Consider adding trees and shrubs
whether you want to create a haven for birds or just make a new yard more
attractive.
Trees and shrubs
need only basic pruning, watering and fertilizing to stay healthy. However,
there is one often-neglected step that will ensure your tree or shrub’s
long-term health: properly preparing the soil.
The best way to do
that is to mix in the right amount of Canadian sphagnum peat moss when
transplanting. Canadian sphagnum peat moss is a natural, organic soil
conditioner. Its unique cell structure helps regulate moisture and air around
plant roots, creating ideal growing conditions.
Peat Moss
• Aerates plant roots by loosening heavy clay
soil.
• Adds body to sandy soil.
• Saves water by absorbing and holding
moisture.
• Reduces leaching or runoff of nutrients
present in or added to the soil, releasing them over time.
Your checklist for easy transplanting
• Dig a hole three times the width of the root
ball and just as deep, sloping the sides of the hole outward to 45 degrees.
Loosen bottom of hole with a garden fork.
• Remove tree or shrub from packaging and cut
off any damaged or rotted roots. Place plant in hole, making sure it’s vertical
and that the shrub is positioned so that its best side is facing the way you
want it.
• Mix one part
peat with two parts soil removed from the hole. Backfill around the root
ball.
• Water and allow to settle (approx. 15 minutes
depending on size of hole).
• Add the remaining peat soil mix, making a
ridge encircling the plant
(like a saucer) to
hold water. Be sure to avoid back-filling above the bark line.
• In heavy clay soil, loosen the top six inches
of soil around the tree or shrub to a radius three to six feet and mix in two
inches of peat moss.
• Mulch the “saucer” area and water twice a
week for three to four weeks.
Note: Some trees need staking.
Ask your local garden or county extension service for more information.
Acidic Soil Plants
• For plants that require a more acidic soil,
such as azaleas, conifers and rhododendrons, follow the transplanting checklist
except mix one part peat with one part soil removed from the hole.
Composting
Don’t despair if
your compost is less than perfect. The art of composting takes time and plenty
of elbow grease to produce the rich, dark organic matter commonly referred to
as “black gold.” To ensure the best compost possible, add Canadian Sphagnum
Peat Moss.
Improve Your Compost Pile
• Peat helps you produce better compost by
speeding up the process, reducing odors and controlling air and water in the
compost pile. If you’ve never tried composting, there are a couple primary
factors to consider: what kind of compost bin will meet your needs and where to
place the bin. Your garden retailer can help you decide which compost bin is
best for all your garden needs.
Placement of a
composter is trickier. In general, the compost bin should be located:
• Close to where it will be used, where it
won’t interfere with activities and where it won’t offend neighbors;
• Away from drying winds; and
• In partial sunlight to help heat it.
Some communities
have additional rules; it’s best to check with your local regulations on these
requirements.
Your checklist for better compost
• Mix a one-inch layer of peat to every four
inches of compostable materials.
• Using a garden fork, flip over the top layers
of organic materials every week or two.
• Add water when needed (the center of the pile
should be moist — not dry or soggy).
• To help cut down on odors, put two-inches of
peat moss on top of the pile.
• Follow these steps until the center of the
compost pile is brown and crumbly, ready to mix into the garden.
Peat in the Garden
• When adding compost to the garden, blend with
equal parts of peat moss. The two complement each other with unique benefits
for your garden. Peat slowly decomposes (several years versus several months
for compost) ensuring longer-term organic matter in the soil, balancing the
nutrition-rich but faster-decomposing compost and reducing compost’s tendency
to compact.
The peat moss / compost mixture helps:
• Aerate plant roots by loosening clay soil;
• Add body to sandy soils;
• Reduce leaching or runoff of nutrients from
compost by retaining and slowly releasing them over time to plants.
You can use the
compost/peat moss mixture to improve the soil in lawn areas, garden beds and
when transplanting trees and shrubs.
Your Guide to a Carefree Lawn & Garden
Timesaving Tips:
Use a peat
moss-based potting soil in containers. Unlike top soil or the soil in your
yard, they are pre-mixed with proper amounts of peat moss and other important
nutrients.
Start Small » Don’t feel like you have to
tackle the whole yard at once. Think of it as work in progress, devoting a few
hours each weekend to lawn and garden projects. For example, prepare the soil
the first weekend and plant flowers or vegetables the next weekend.
Eliminate Weeds Before Planting » This will
give new plants a better chance for healthy growth right from the start. While
you’re at it, condition the soil to make future weeding easier.
Healthy soil is the first step » Healthy soil
is like an immune system. It keeps plants strong so they’re better able to ward
off pests and diseases. To properly amend the soil, work 2 inches of sphagnum
peat moss into the top 6 inches of soil before planting.
Mowing made easy » Cut mowing time by reducing
the area that is grass. Low maintenance alternatives? Try ground cover, rock
garden or flower bed.
Easy color » If you’re not ready for a flower
garden but would like to try your hand at more than a house plant, consider
container gardening. Container gardens are a great alternative for colorful
blooms and require less maintenance than an extensive flower bed.
Colorful, Easy-Care Choices » Tip: to avoid
over-watering, set a coffee can or container in the section being watered. When
the water level reaches the 1-inch mark, you’ve adequately watered the area.
Yardner Flowers
Great for the
beginner or people pressed for time, these plants will beautify your yard and
they require less maintenance that other varieties:
Made in the shade » Begonias, impatiens,
pansies and hostas are successful in shade or moderate sunlight.
Sun lovers » Plants that thrive in bright
sunlight include marigolds, geraniums, petunias, zinnias and snapdragons. Most
vegetable and herbs also prefer bright sunlight.
Extremely forgiving » Evergreens such as
juniper and arborvitae are lovely year-round and need little care and
attention. Ground covers are a great alternative for “problem areas” and grow
well in unsightly spots or sloped sections where it’s difficult to create
flower beds. Try English ivy and snow-on-the-mountain.
When selecting
flowers, keep in mind that you’ll have to choose between:
Annuals: These bloom all summer long but must
be replanted each year. They work especially well in beds, hanging baskets or
container gardens.
Perennials: These bloom for a shorter amount of
time but return each year. They are generally planted as colorful borders along
the house, driveway or lawn, or around a tree base.
A Guide For All Seasons
SPRING » After a long winter indoors, most of
us are ready to dig in when warm weather arrives. Before you get started,
remember: Healthy soil is the key to lawn and garden success. Just follow this
handy checklist:
• Condition your lawn – Begin by aerating your lawn to allow air
and water to reach grass roots. Rent a power aerator or hire a local lawn care
specialist to aerate for you. Then spread 1/4 inch of Sphagnum peat moss across
the lawn (a process known as top dressing).
• Fix bare spots on your lawn – Repair those problem areas and
condition the soil by working 2 inches of peat moss into the top 6 inches of
soil. Spread grass seed and cover it with a 1/4-inch layer of peat moss. Keep
the area moist. You’ll soon notice new growth.
• Plant colorful blooms – A few weeks before planting flowers,
prepare the soil by working 2 inches of peat moss into the top 6 inches of
soil.
SUMMER » Summer is the time to show off your
hard work. Plan to spend a couple of hours per week on simple upkeep and
maintenance to keep your lawn and garden looking its best. Mow and edge weekly,
and remember to keep the lawn and garden properly watered.
FALL » Fall is the time to winterize your yard
and plant bulbs for early spring blooms. These fall projects will save you time
and effort later:
• Plant bulbs – Tulips, irises and other bulbs are the first
flowers to bloom in spring, and they must be planted in the fall. Most need to
be planted 8 inches deep, so dig about 10 inches deep when working peat moss
into the soil.
• Condition the soil now, instead of spring – At a minimum, top
dress the lawn and repair bare spots to make more time for other projects when
spring arrives.
• Make room for new growth – Remove all dead plants and roots from
your flower beds and garden. While you’re at it, work 1 to 2 inches of peat
moss into the soil to promote healthy plant growth next spring.
WINTER » Winter is the time to kick back and
relax. Remember, if you take the time to winterize your lawn and garden this
fall, you’ll be ahead of the game when spring arrives.
What Does the CSPMA Logo Guarantee?
• The logo ensures adherence to the strict
environmental guidelines set out by the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss
Association. CSPMA members harvest the peat in a sustainable manner and are
committed to returning harvested bogs to functioning wetlands when harvesting
is complete. Retailers and consumers alike should look for the CSPMA logo on
every bag of peat moss they buy.
The all-natural
organic way to improve native soils is by using Black Kow® composted cow manure. By mixing Black Kow® cow
manure with your native soil before planting, you do 3 important things:
Provide moisture holding capacity to sandy soils.
Black Kow cow manure holds water and nutrients in the soil around the roots.
The roots can use the water and nutrients when needed instead of letting the
nutrients leach through the soil.
Provide aeration and moisture holding capacity to hard,
clay-type soils. Black Kow® cow manure helps break up those soils so
that water and nutrients are available to the plant when needed.
Give your plant's
roots the optimum environment in which to get started.
Black Kow® cow
manure contains millions of beneficial bacteria.
These bacteria convert nitrogen and other nutrients into an easily available
form for the plant.
It is organic and
contains nutrients that are released slowly without burning tender roots. These
nutrients and moisture are held in the soil around roots until the plant needs
them.
